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Culture Vultures Say Cheese: Filthy Dreams’ 60th Venice Biennale Fashion Report

Jan Bačynsjkyj aka Yana Bachynska, multimedia artist of the queer narrative. Following Russia’s 2022 invasion of Ukraine, he left his homeland, transitioning to a nomadic lifestyle, making sculptures out of the clothes he wears to keep packing light (all photos, unless otherwise noted, by author)

I’m just back from the 60th Venice Biennale pre-opening. Expect my not-quite-a-review review on the main exhibition, Foreigners Everywhere, curated by Adriano Pedrosa, soon. But first, here is my second bi-annual Venice Biennale Fashion Report!

Half the thrill of attending the three-day pre-opening of the Venice Biennale is communing with perhaps the most internationally diverse group of cultural makers and advocates on the planet in one place at one time. It includes many artists in the exhibitions, their dealers, and a vast array of other artists, collectors, curators, museum and art center directors, art collectives, journalists, critics, musicians, designers, and every culture vulture imaginable. These are not just the power players, though there are many. You may also have a conversation with the young founder of an alternative art space on some hard-to-find Norwegian fjord. Or meet a trans-fem poet reading at the opening performance of the national pavilion of some developing country. Or have a coffee with a group of nomadic German artists living from one poorly funded project to the next. You might even be introduced to a rising art star from the Ivory Coast whose newfound success not only supports his family back home but also a good part of his community.

Two years ago, the biennale opened a year late due to COVID. We were still in COVID-lite and masking inside the exhibition spaces and pavilions. Ukraine was only just under siege, and the Russian pavilion was empty. This year, the Russians rented their pavilion to Bolivia, and the artist and curators of the Israeli pavilion left a sign in the window stating they “will open the exhibition when a ceasefire and hostage release agreement is reached.”

Despite these harsh reminders of our political reality, this year, in particular, the crowd’s colorful and celebratory expressions through fashion amplified the theme of the main exhibition, “Foreigners Everywhere.” And, like within the exhibition, I noticed a distinct interest in the handmade. From so-called high fashion to DIY, this was a joyful celebration of difference under the Venice Biennale tent.

ENJOY!

Many of the photographed can be found on Instagram. I’ve provided profile links for the subjects I spoke with, but feel free to ID yourself or anyone else photographed anonymously—to me personally or in the comments. 

Dario Biancullo, artist from Naples. Those pants—he made them!

Jelena Milasinovic, PR Manager, Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra

MACE, multiplatinum producer musician

Waiter at the famous Florian, San Marco

Bumping into the gorgeous interdisciplinary artist and curator Selam on my last day was a treat!

“J” Some boys are just too pretty!

I went back in time when I met this digitally disconnected Neo-Italian Renaissance creature at the Estonian rave.

Art advisor, writer, and Asia Now Fair Ambassador Virginie is giving me all her tips on Puglia! (I was staying in the nearest house in the background.)

She was sitting behind us, looking like this, at one of my favorite Venice restaurants

Paper artist Yvette Ja (geometric) with Rashida (floral) of The Globe Gallery

Her Miu Miu’s were in her bag. If she had not been in a hurry…

Fellow Alexandru of the Royal Society of Arts. I’ll say!

Christoffer is sweet in blue.

Irish-Sierra Leonean artist Alice Lucy Rekab in this incredible thing they made.

That same restaurant. It was a wild night. @imjustaglamorousperson

It’s all about the belly button. And the smile! Sweet Jo Fetto.

The man of the hour, Jeffrey Gibson. The first Indigenous artist to have a solo exhibition in the American Pavilion of the Venice Biennale, Jeffrey identifies as queer and gay.

The extraordinary Poodle! After seeing me the day before, they ran up to me, “Hey, Filthy Fashion Guy!” Poodle makes those latex tops. Later, at the Estonian rave, I met their friends, the American artist Brianna Leatherbury, and her Icelandic artist partner, Saemundur Thor Helgason.

Allison Akootchook Warden is an Iñupiaq artist-poet from Alaska. She is a tribal member of the Native village of Kaktovik. Recently, she had a dream that said she had to move to Dallas. She did. She’s a friend of Jeffrey Gibson.

These handsome cats. Graphic designer Émilien Bonnet and pal.

Nuff said. Marc Bagarry

Rey Davis and polka dot pal

He showed up that night at Corte Sconta. He had a better table than us.

I met Baptist Goth, performance artist/vocalist, with their tribe of Berlin artists surviving on the diminishing arts funding trail. Jack Hogan too.

Nigerian fashion designer Papa Oyeyemi, Creative Director of Maxivive.

Tamara Chalabi, “Visual art and literary adventures in Wonderland,” and now also ITERARTE

Fab Canadian artist Sharie Hunter on the runway!

Dr. Serap Mumcu Geronazzo, historian of the Ottoman Empire and Venice.

Susie Allen, founder of Artwise Curators, stands out!

I barely had to ask before this crew went into action inside the Belgian pavilion! Best memory. The gorgeous Robin Heels, Poodle, and Melanie Bonajo.

Anne Kennedy

Exceptional artists Eric Pasino and Ketty Gobbo.

Canadian fashion and interior and architectural designer extraordinaire Paul Hardy.

Oh, these handsome boys: artist/producer Leo Luchini @leoluchini and musician Kylie.

Mario kept showing up. Superb painter from Jersey. (Photo credit: Ethan Cohen)

London/Reykjavik curator Helena Aðalsteinsdóttir and UK curator Jessie Krish.

Saving the best for near last: The amazing new media installation/performance artist Daniela Vetra with incredible Congolese painter Catheris Mondombo, one of my Venice apartment mates.

I can’t believe I don’t know who this is! (Photo credit: Ethan Cohen)

Me, at ‘work!’ (Photo credit: Donna Mikkelsen)

Still ‘working’ (Photo credit: Donna Mikkelsen)

 

Bradley Wester (@buckwest) is a visual artist, writer, critic, and cultural activist. His recently published essay, “Shiny Object,” has been nominated for both a Pushcart Prize and Best American Essays. That essay and parts of this essay, “Is Mary Boone a Bloodsucker?” are taken from his agented creative nonfiction manuscript about his southern gothic New Orleans upbringing and the New York art scene of the 1980s.

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